Výroba dýmek - odkazy, suroviny, nápady .. - ARCHIV

[Pegas]

Pokud chceš dýmku mořit,tak určitě nepoužívej žádné umělé sajrajty jako zmiňovals luxol,leštěnku atd..Já používám jenom lihová mořidla,které jsou úplně běžně k dostání v obi nebo baumaxu.Prodávají se v hnědých plastových obalech.Je toho asi půl litru a stojí to něco kolem 60.-kč.Odstínů si kup víc a na odřezcích,které při výrobě dýmky vznikají si vyzkoušej různé odstíny.Je dobré taky zkoušet odstíny v různých poměrech míchat.Doporučuji ti abys zkušební odřezky připravil stejně jako povrch dýmky.Jinak ti kresba vyjde na hrubém a jinak na leštěném povrchu.Osvědčilo se mi mořidlo více naředit čistým lihem a odstín nanášet ve více vrstvách.A úplně nakonec postup s pravým včelím voskem nastrouhaným v tech. benzínu.Nanést štětcem a horkým vzduchem z fénu na vlasy nechat vrstvu vosku delší dobu roztávat,tak aby se částečně do dýmky vpil.Přebytečný vosk ještě za tepla setřít papírovým ubrouskem nebo bavlněným hadříkem.Hodně zdaru.Neboj se zeptat na cokoli i když se ti zdá že je to blbost.Právě ty drobnosti dělají velké věci .Od toho tady jsou tyto stránky.

[kubik]

Proc to rozpousteni vosku v benzinu? Aby se lepe rozmazaval a vpijel?

Jeste jeden dotaz... k cemu je ta teflonova vlozka do naustku? neco jako filtr ci co?

[LUBO]

teflonova vlozka sa tak neroztahuje a aj lepsie klze pri vyberani a zakrucani naustku. zda sa mi, ze originalne akrylove vysustruzene capy spolu s naustkom sa prejavuju horsim zasuvanim a vyberanim. niekde som o teflonovom cape cital, ale sa uz nepamatam, kde. ja objednavam kusy vzdy s teflonovym capom.

[Pegas]

Přesně tak.Jinak totiž ten nejjednoduší způsob jak nanést rovnoměrnou vrstvu vosku na dýmku k dalšímu zpracování.Benzín rychle vyprchá a zůstane jenom vosk který potom nahřeješ fénem.Benzín v dýmce neucítíš už za pár hodin a zůstane jen jemná vůně včelího vosku.Mám zkopírovaný postup z Hookových stránek.Momentálně nejedou tak se snad nebude zlobit když ti ho nabídnu.Jestli chceš tak napiš mail ajá ti pošlu.Je to podrobný návo d na výrobu dýmky i s fotkama.

[Crash]

Btw., počítá připravovaný portál i se sekcí "výroba" k umístění manuálů?

Že bych zdokumentoval jak to nedělat, resp. jak z krásnýho dřeva udělat paskvil... letos už potřetí...

Tak to bych maximálně uvítal. S výrobou dýmky z hobby bloku problém nemám, ale teď se chystám (až dorazí materiál od Hooka) na dýmku včetně vrtání, 'čepování' apod. a tady už nějaké ty technologické znalosti chybět budou.

Škoda, že Hookovi nejedou www, měl tam perfektní postup pro vrtání atd. Kdyby někdo měl náhodou jeho návod stažený u sebe a chtělo se mu ho poslat na lorencj@centrum.cz byl bych potěšen.

[LUBO]

na fore priatelov... som nechal nie tak davno odkaz na niekolko dlhych video-zaznamov americkeho pipe makera, kde je podrobne zdokumentovane, ako sa jednotlive komory vrtaju. vratane anglickeho komentaru. ja som si ich aj stiahol do pocitaca.

[kubik]

na fore priatelov... som nechal nie tak davno odkaz na niekolko dlhych video-zaznamov americkeho pipe makera, kde je podrobne zdokumentovane, ako sa jednotlive komory vrtaju. vratane anglickeho komentaru. ja som si ich aj stiahol do pocitaca.

http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/ ...najit to v tech 300 prispevcich musi byt docela sranda. Diky Lubo za to tema, ale je to zabava na dlouho... uz ho po kouskach ctu tejden a furt nejsem u konce...

[Pegas]

To Crash a Kubik

Odesláno

[LUBO]

tak este pre ostatnych, aby sa im to lahsie hladalo:
tu su 4 videa:
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/modules.p ... on_a_Lathe
tu 1 video:
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/images/Tu ... e_Bowl.wmv
a tu dalsie video:
http://www.tylerlanepipes.com/modules.p ... nding_Disc
to posledne ma 13,6MB a trva vyse 12 minut, dokopy vsetky videa momentalne 28 minut, takze je to uz dost dlhe kino

[Twineryy]

to kubik: Jestli se ti ty dýmky z různých jiných dřev povedly, tak nevim, proč se bojíš jít do briaru. Zase tak drahý to není a máš dýmku nadosmrti (což u dýmek z jiných dřev asi nebude). Lihový mořidla jsou asi fakt nejlepší. Vyzkoušej dýmku mořit - pak vymýt lihem - pak zas namořit - vymýt - namořit zase třeba jiným odstínem. Dosáhneš tím zajímavých efektů.

[Simon]

ad moridla - nemoril sem sice dymku, ale neco jinyho, ale muzu srovnat nejaky cesky lihovy moridlo a vodove znacky Clou ... je to nesrovnatelne, to lihovy se do dreva skoro nechytalo a prislo mne, jako by to drevo silene vysusilo nejakou chemii, ....vodove clou moridlo se chovalo presne opacne, takze na dymku jdu kazdopadne do vodoveho clou

...mmch na oboji sem daval vceli vosk, finalni vzhled je nesrovnatelne lepsi u vodoveho Clou moridla, zbytek toho lihovyho sem zahodil

[archduke]

Making the Pipe
The first step in actually making your pipe is drilling the smoke hole and mortise and the tobacco hole. A drill press is your best bet. I am fortunate to have a Shop smith lathe (wood lathe) in the shop and find that, with the proper setup, I prefer using this handy tool. The key to success when using one tool or the other, however, lies in accurately measuring the angles and depths of the holes you're going to be drilling as related to the square outer surface of the briar block. I first drill the smoke hole and mortise and then the tobacco hole. If the depth and angle of the smoke hole are accurately controlled, meeting the tobacco hole exactly in the center of the bottom is simply a matter of carefully drilling the tobacco hole while frequently pulling the bit out as you near the planned depth to visually check the bottom of the hole. When the smoke hole becomes visible, carefully proceed, using a light touch with the drill, until the relationship of the holes with one another is optimal.

For drilling the tobacco hole, I highly recommend the special bits sold by Stemco-Pimo; they will produce a hole of the proper size with the proper rounded bottom contour. A set of three bits in sizes appropriate for most pipes costs about $16. You could, of course, make your own bits by shaping commercial spade wood bits to the proper contour on a grinder. Another possibility that I have considered but not yet tried is to use contoured milling burrs of the proper shape and size, which I have seen in tool supply catalogs. These are designed to mill holes in metal and would undoubtedly work equally well in briar burl and would perhaps leave an even smoother inner surface to the tobacco hole than a wood bit does. Sanding the interior of the tobacco hole on a finished pipe is rather difficult because of its limited size and rather deep contour, so any help in tarea would be most welcome.

When the drilling is finished, you are ready to begin shaping your pipe to its finished contours. Briar burl is a very hard wood, and you will quickly find that removing large quantities of stock with a coping saw or hacksaw by first cutting off corners and other portions of the plateau that fall outside the lines of the finished pipe will save you much time and effort. (Save these pieces!) Be sure to leave sufficient stock for small changes in shape to allow for removal of interior flaws that might be uncovered in the sawing.(Access to a band saw is quite helpful)

You may choose among several tools to actually shape the pipe. Experienced wood carvers might prefer a knife. However, I believe that the hardness of the material makes files more appropriate. Even better is a hobby tool such as a Foredom flex-shaft or even a Dremel tool if you have one available. I am fortunate to have a Foredom flex-shaft tool and a selection of cutting, grinding and drilling bits available in the shop. I use this tool almost exclusively to shape my pipes once I have removed the excess wood by sawing. The most useful bit I have found and the one I use about 95% of the time is a 1/2" sanding drum equipped with the coarsest abrasive available (80 or 100 grit). With this tool, I shape the stummel (that part of the pipe comprising the bowl and shank) from start to approximate final shape. It removes material quite rapidly, and you should practice with it in order to insure that you don't inadvertently take off too much in any one spot. With a bit of practice, you can use it almost instinctually, and it allows you to shape the hard burl with amazing ease. When you use this tool, I recommend that you wear a disposable paper filter mask to prevent the fine briar dust from clogging your nasal passages. Eye protection is also mandatory.

When you have achieved a shape that satisfies you, the sanding process begins. The object here is to refine the shape to its final lines and to remove as many flaws as possible (hopefully, all of them) from the visible surface while arriving at a stummel that is ready for staining and/or waxing. I begin the sanding process with 100 grit paper, using hand sanding or wrapping the paper around an appropriately shaped item, such as a drill bit, a pencil or my finger, to get at the curved places. Once I have completely sanded the stummel with the 100 grit paper, I progress to 150 grit, then 220 grit and on through 400 grit to final sanding with 600 grit paper. This process sounds fast in the telling, but it actually consumes more time than the actual shaping of the stummel with the Foredom tool.

The satisfaction you or anyone will feel from handling and using your finished pipe is largely derived from the perfection of its finish, so any amount of time spent to achieve perfection here is time well spent. When the sanding is completed to my satisfaction, I next wipe the entire stummel down with alcohol on a soft cloth. Wiping serves to remove sanding dust and to expose any flaws that the dust may have hidden or any scratches left by the final sanding. Almost invariably when I carefully examine the stummel, I find some tiny spot that I didn't sand quite thoroughly or some tiny flaw that I think could be removed by further sanding. This, mind you, after I was virtually certain that I had done a perfect job in the first place! I have been known to revert to the 220 grit or the 400 grit level as many as three times on a single stummel before finally arriving at what I consider an acceptably sanded end product.

[archduke]

dokonceni:
po smirglu grit 400 pouzivame grit 600, 800 a 1000 nebo "ocelovou vatu "0000"

[archduke]

Staining and Waxing the Pipe
The final step in preparing your stummel for use is to apply a stain--if you want to--and a through waxing. Many pipes will be enhanced by a stain that brings out the grain or simply changes the color of the unfinished wood to something more in keeping with the maker's aesthetic feelings. Pipe makers use alcohol- based stains that are available in a myriad of hues and shades. I prefer a briar pipe to look like it's made of wood rather than some brightly colored substitute material, so I tend to stick to a natural finish if the grain is up to it or a light walnut or cherry finish if the grain needs the help. You can stain the small pieces of wood removed with your saw when you first began to shape the pipe to determine which color works best with this particular piece of wood. I apply the stain with a Q-Tip, being careful not to allow it to run down inside the bowl. When the stummel is dry after a minute or so, I burnish it with a piece of 0000 steel wool to remove excess stain and to lighten the stained surface to the desired shade. If the pipe is a plateau-topped freehand, you may wish to use a darker stain or even a black stain on the plateau surface. If you do, take special care to prevent the dark stain from running down the outside of the bowl. I prefer to use the same color stain that I plan to use on the sides of the bowl but to just apply it more heavily on the plateau top. Then I'll usually lighten the bowl color to some degree during my steel wool burnishing, thus giving a nice contrast between the top and sides of a plateau-style bow.

Having stained your bowl to a satisfactory color, you're ready to apply the wax. I recommend pure carnuba wax, which is used by most, if not all, professional pipe makers and gives the hardest, longest-lasting finish of any wax. It is so hard that it cannot be applied by wiping on like most other waxes. Carnuba must be applied by holding a chunk of the wax against a spinning cloth buffing wheel to charge the buff and then using the charged buff to apply the wax to the pipe. With care, this waxing procedure will result in an extremely hard glasslike polish on the pipe that cannot be achieved with any other wax. Other waxes are available that will do an acceptable if less satisfactory job, but I recommend pure carnuba.

[archduke]

Fitting the Stem
I have left for last the subject of fitting your pipe with a stem so that you can actually smoke it. Because I have concentrated primarily on Danish-style freehands in my pipe making thus far, I can leave making the stem until last. If, however, you have decided to make a standard shape for your first effort, shaping the stem must be integrated into shaping the shank of the stummel. With standard shapes, the stem is exactly the same diameter and shape as the shank and must therefore be shaped together with the shank to get a smooth junction. In the few standard shapes I have made thus far, I haven't found this difference to cause any particular problem. I tend to simply place the stem in the stummel once I have turned the tenon down to the proper diameter and then to shape the stem and shank as if they were a single piece of material. A freehand pipe, on the other hand, seldom uses a stem that is formed as a continuation of the shank. In most freehands, the stem is a fancier shape, with symmetrical grooves and/or bulges, and it may be conveniently shaped and sanded apart from the stummel one the tenon is turned to the correct diameter. Stemco-Pimo offers a clever tool designed to be used with a hand drill to turn tenons to size.( As does JH Lowe and Joe Giardino) I haven't used this tool because I have devised a method of doing the job using the Shop smith, but if you don't have a lathe, it appears to be quite adequate for the job. Needless to say, the tenon must be turned to precisely the diameter of the mortise to ensure a snug fit when the pipe is assembled.

Once you have shaped your stem to the desired contour and sanded it to a smooth finish using only the finer grits of paper (320, 400 and 600), it is time to bend it to its proper curve to enhance the pipe for which it is intended (unless of course it is to be left perfectly straight). Vulcanite stems, which comprise the majority of stems in the pipes I have made thus far, may be bent quite simply with materials at hand in every home. First run a pipe cleaner through the stem so that it protrudes from both ends. Bend the ends to 90 degrees more or less from the line of the stem. Put the stem and pipe cleaner in a small oven-proof container and cover it with a layer of table salt. Place the container in your kitchen oven set to a temperature of 270 degrees F for 10 or 15 minutes or until the stem gets soft enough to bend easily. Remove the stem from the salt by grabbing the exposed pipe cleaner. Using a folded handkerchief or other cloth to prevent scorching your fingers, bend the stem to the desired degree. Hold the bend in place with your hands and the cloth until the stem has cooled (or dip in water while maintaining bend for 10 seconds) sufficiently to retain its shape unaided (only a minute or so). Remove the pipe cleaner and try the stem in the pipe to see if you like the looks of your job or if you want to add or subtract from the bend or to make a slightly different arc. Return the pipe cleaner and heat and bend again as desired.(This may also be accomplished by rapidly moving stem back and forth over a flame such as a torch or alcohol lamp. Keep the stem moving so it doesn't scorch)

Once you're satisfied with the bend, you may proceed to the final finishing of the stem, which is accomplished by burnishing with 0000 steel wool and polishing on a motor-driven buffing wheel charged with tripoli. You may, of course, use your electric hand drill to turn the buff, using the jig you built earlier to hold the drill. Assemble your stem and stummel and gaze in awe at what your hands have wrought. I'm certain that you'll be pleased with it and that it will hold a special pride of place in your pipe rack henceforth